Decyl glucoside is a non-ionic surfactant. It’s made from glucose derived from plants and a fatty alcohol often sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil. It produces a light lather and is common in gentle shampoos.⁵ The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert panel considers alkyl glucosides safe in the present practices of use when they’re formulated to be non-irritating.⁵

Coco glucoside belongs to the same family as decyl glucoside. It’s made from glucose and fatty alcohols from coconut. It’s a mild cleanser, appreciated for its lather and good tolerance.⁵

Lauryl glucoside is another alkyl glucoside, made from glucose and lauryl alcohol. It contributes to lather and is one of the surfactants used to formulate gentle shampoos.⁵

Sodium coco-sulfate is an anionic surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids. It’s an effective cleanser that lathers generously. Sulfates clean well, but they can irritate some sensitive scalps, which is why they’re often paired with milder surfactants.²

Sodium cocoyl isethionate is made from coconut fatty acids and sodium isethionate, a compound obtained synthetically. This anionic surfactant is known for its mildness and creamy lather.²

Sodium cocoyl glutamate results from combining coconut fatty acids with glutamic acid, an amino acid. It belongs to the amino acid-based surfactants, which are appreciated for their mildness.⁶

Glycerin is a humectant, which means it attracts water and helps hold it at the skin’s surface.⁷ In a shampoo, it helps keep the scalp comfortable.

Shea butter is extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, Butyrospermum parkii. It’s rich in fatty acids and unsaponifiable compounds that give it its softening properties.⁸

If you’re looking for a shea butter shampoo, look for Butyrospermum parkii butter on the list, preferably near the beginning, since ingredients are ranked from highest to lowest concentration.³

Stearyl citrate is an ester of stearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol, and citric acid.⁹ It acts as an emollient, meaning it softens and smooths the skin, and as a skin-conditioning agent.¹⁰ The CIR expert panel considers alkyl citrate esters safe in the present practices of use and concentration.¹¹

Glyceryl oleate is an ester of glycerin and oleic acid, a fatty acid found in nature. It’s made from oils and fats of natural origin.^12,13 It acts as an emollient, meaning it softens and smooths the skin, and as an emulsifier, since it helps blend water and oils.¹²

“Natural” doesn’t mean “risk-free” or “more effective”

A natural-origin ingredient isn’t automatically gentler, safer, or higher-performing than a synthetic one. Most of the ingredients above are also processed. They’re derived from plant-based raw materials but obtained through chemical processes. Some plant extracts, like essential oils, are even among the known contact allergens.¹⁴ That’s why fragrance allergens must now be listed individually on the label above certain thresholds.⁴

The word “natural” on packaging therefore says little about a product’s mildness, safety or effectiveness. The ingredient list, on the other hand, is regulated and shows exactly what the shampoo contains, under what name and in what order of concentration.³ It lets you spot a known allergen, compare two products and check that the ingredients you want are really there.